Astypalea
BUTTERFLY EFFECT
Astypalea, also known as the "butterfly of the Aegean" (because of its shape), is an island with 1,376 inhabitants (according to the 2021 census). Astypalaia belongs to the Dodecanese Prefecture, but geographically and culturally it is located at the border between the Dodecanese and the Cyclades, which explains a lot about its uniqueness.
“Greece is a good place for rebirths”
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OVER ALL
I think Chora is probably the most beautiful in the Aegean. It extends amphitheatrically on a hill, on top of which the castle dominates. The castle of Astypalea (or Castle of Kouerini) is definitely the most important attraction of the island. It is one of the most important and characteristic medieval castles of the South Aegean. Because it is constructed with traditional dark local stone, it presents unique architectural and fortification elements that distinguish it significantly from the other castles of the Aegean.
The famous church of Panagia Portaitissa (18th century), which is celebrated on 15 August, is also located here. Within the castle, there are also the churches of Evangelismos and Agios Georgios.
In Chora you will also see the famous windmills, a trademark of the island, one of which is a library, and the wonderful white houses. Truly, a painting before your eyes!
The other magnificent feature of the island is, of course, its wonderful beaches.
The coast of Astypalaia is rocky, with bays and beaches. A small strip of land of about 100 meters, Steno, divides the island into two parts, the “mesa“ (inner) and “exo“ (outer) island.
Exo island is dotted with rough dirt roads, which can be very difficult to drive. This is the reason why we almost didn't go around the east side at all.
An excuse for another visit some day.
ISLETS AROUND ASTYPALEA
Finally, in the southeast there are several small islands, such as Agia Kiriaki, Chondros, Kounoupi (or Kounoupa or Kounoupes) and Koutsomitis. To the west are the islets of Ophidousa, Chtenia, Pontikusa and others.
Every morning boats leave from Pera Gialos to the islets located just below the "wings" of Astypalea. Here the waters are crystal clear, cool and refreshing.
We chose Thalassopouli Daily Cruises for our excursion.
First stop on our boat trip was the beach Kounoupi, essentially two islands joined by a narrow strip of sand. Here there is a small canteen and nothing else but the incredible scenery. You can swim in the heavenly waters, explore the islet on foot and if you're feeling brave you can even spend the night under the incredible starry sky.
We continued our excursion. Due to the wind picking up, our awesome captain skipped the short stop at Koutsomitis beach and instead took us to an amazing beach with no name, which can only be reached by sea. Here.
I must mention this about the captain; despite the fact that the waves were now quite high, his skiff was skillfully guiding it through the foam in a way I've never seen before. Boat was almost flying. Unreal.
More beaches of the island are Vatses, Kaminakia, Livadi, Agios Konstantinos, Agios Ioannis, Plakes, Chrisi Ammos, Mple Limanaki (my favourite) and countless others. Virtually every crease in the rocks creates a wonderful opportunity for swimming.
Reasons to love this place are many, as you may have already realized.
A few more:
The people are calm, kind and welcoming with unpretentious politeness and joy.
There are no snakes here at all!
The innovative project "Astypalea Smart & Sustainable Island ", in collaboration with Volkswagen, the Greek government and the Municipality of Astypalea, offers electric vehicles, bicycles and scooters through the Astymove app, making it easier to get around the island.
Conde Nast Traveler selected Astypalaia as the best destination in Greece for quality and peaceful holidays in 2025. It could do it every year, if you ask me.
If you like camping, I recommend staying here. Very close to Chora and in front of a beautiful beach, the campsite has its own special character, just like the whole island.
The sight of Chora, illuminated under a full moon, is another unforgettable experience. I would recommend watching the sun rise through the sea as well. Unforgettable.
You should come to this magical island at the first opportunity.
As did I, you will love every moment.
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