Beauty around us / Amorgos
NOT JUST THE BIG BLUE
Everyone knows that famous French director Luc Besson chose Amorgos as one of the main settings for his subsequently renowned film The Big Blue (1988).
What is important to note is that this endless blue characterises the entire journey by ship. Basically, all shades of blue surround you as you sail around the Aegean. This sea has no match.
ONCE IN A LIFETIME
Some years ago I travelled with my adorable soon-to-be-then-wife on a very important holiday trip, as I will explain below.
When, after hours of travel, the ship entered the port of Aegiali, I saw dry mountain slopes, chapels and houses perched on them, secluded beaches with campers and already beautiful waters. After leaving our luggages in the room, we headed for a swim, some delicious fish at one of Aegiali’s tavernas and a drink at our friend Elias' favorite Embassa bar.*
“With their country tied to their sails and their oars hung on the wind
The shipwrecked slept tamely like dead beasts on a bedding of sponges”
ΤΗΕ ΝΕΧΤ DAY
The next morning we took our car and drove to the other end of the island, to the beach of Kalotaritissa and from there by boat across to the small Gramvoussa island (both very common names on this side of the Aegean). At Gramvoussa you will take short, easy hikes and you will also find a very photogenic chapel. I photographed it in every way possible (I narrowly made it in time to take a dip before we left).
On the way back we made a first stop at the wreck of the "Olympia", which has been here since 1980. You may remember this from the Besson movie as well. There was a terrible wind blowing at the time and I had a hard time photographing it the way I wanted to, but I managed.
The next stop was at the incredible beach of Mouros. The colors are sublime and the rock formations, as sculpted by the sea and winds, look like sculptures. One more dip in the sea and back on the road.
After a while, we sat down in a beautiful cafe in Chora for a sweet, cold coffee and some rest.
A SMALL HIKE TO THE MILLS
The next day, after eating breakfast, we set off for the famous pastries in Lagada, at Tratarisma. If I remember correctly, I tried a lemon pie and Eleni tried the cherry cheesecake, but it doesn't really matter. Everything is delicious and the place is perfect for reading and relaxing. I let Helen to continue her reading and took the uphill trail up the abandoned mills to the top of the small mountain.
The mills are in poor condition, but the views between the clouds make up for it. I spent some time between the mills and the clouds, took some photos and returned. I want to tell you something though: the wind was relentless! I've never experienced such strong wind whipping me like that before; I barely stayed upright for a few moments and even never got to use the tripod. Not even in the notorious Marseilles, where I stayed for two months, have I experienced such a strong wind. Amazing.
Another strange sight worth noting were the small seashells scattered on the rocks of the mountain.
The rest of the day passed calmly, with baths and a nice meal in a traditional tavern in Tholaria. We went to bed very early, as the next day was the most important day of the trip.
SAY YES
We woke up at 05:00 in the morning and set off for **Monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa.**
This is the oldest monastery in the Cyclades and one of the most important in all of Greece. The purpose of our visit, of course, was multiple. Apart from visiting such a great place, I wanted to admire it at sunrise, but one more thing: here, about halfway up the climb to the monastery, one day before my birthday, I had decided to propose to Eleni!
I had been planning it for about two months already and I was terribly nervous, since I had to:
convince her to wake up in the middle of the night, during our holiday trip,
convince her to climb 271 steps before she even had coffee,
explain that I'm wearing a nice, white shirt "because we're going to visit a great monastery",
set up the tripod with the camera "to take a picture with the sunrise in the background" when all I wanted was to take a video of the proposal,
get the ring off without her seeing it and of course,
try not to shake so much.
It goes without saying that everything had to be done in such a way that she wouldn't understand anything and she really didn;t (the very early morning wake up time helped for sure). While I was setting up the camera and tripod here, Helen was facing the rising sun and taking pictures with her phone. So, I was able to kneel down and by the time she turned around I was proposing to her in a shaky voice (my eyes may have gotten a little misty).
Beautiful Helen, moments after the proposal.
WONDERFUL LIFE
After the happy outcome of the complicated plan (she said "yes" and we've been triumphant together ever since), we gazed at the sun rising in this vast seascape, visited the monastery and slowly made our way back to Chora, after a short stop at the small beach of Agia Anna with its beautiful chapel.
Here we sat at the sweet Kallisto, had a coffee and called our dear people to tell them the good news.
The beach of Agios Pavlos, opposite the uninhabited island of Nikouria, was next.
Personally, this was the place I liked the most for swimming in Amorgos. One of the characteristics of all the Cyclades is the strong winds and Amorgos is no exception. Agios Pavlos is a place relatively unscathed by the wind and even more so Nikouria beach. Here I really enjoyed diving for hours in the clear waters (it might have had something to do with the proposal too, I don't know).
FINAL NOTES
This was the second leg of our two-weeks holidays that year and probably the most…anxious trip I have ever done. Nevertheless, Amorgos is one of the most beautiful trips I've ever taken and I highly recommend it for every single one of you.
Even if you are planning to propose.**
the photo from our wedding invitation
* Although at that time it had not yet opened, I have to mention Bastet at Katapola, the second port of Amorgos. The girls who run this place are among the nicest people I know.
** If you do, send me a message and I might help you with a good idea or two.