Bittersweet Marseille
TWO MONTHS OF MY LIFE
It was September 2022 when my wife and I landed in Marseille for the first time and in a strange turn of events, less than 45 days later, I came to live in this city for almost 2 months.
I had never been to France before (I had only landed once in Paris catching α plane to Cuba). More about that in another post, where I'll describe the whole... French experience.
CHILLY MISTRAL AND COLOURFUL SKIES
Well, I cannot share any specific details on why I spent all this time in Marseille, since there is an NDA in the middle, but what I can tell you is that the job had nothing to do with photography.
Another thing I can tell you is that the wind is relentless. The notorious mistral is a strong, cold, northwesterly wind blowing from southern France into the Gulf of Lion in the northern Mediterranean. I stayed there in November and December. All the French I met said that the wind is worse in February; I really find it hard to believe.
Being in a cold place is one thing. Being in a cold place, by the sea, working outside for more than 6 hours everyday, while the wind hits your whole body constantly at speeds of more than 60km/h is another thing; let me tell you, there is no joy in that.
On the other hand, I can honestly say that in Marseille I witnessed some of the most impressive skies ever and, as someone coming from Greece, I think that says a lot.
“Marseilles isn’t a city for tourists. There’s nothing to see. Its beauty can’t be photographed. It can only be shared. It’s a place where you have to take sides, be passionately for or against. Only then can you see what there is to see. And you realize, too late, that you’re in the middle of a tragedy. An ancient tragedy in which the hero is death. In Marseilles, even to lose you have to know how to fight.”
La Major
Sainte-Marie-Majeure Cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Marseille.
FOOD
I had created a list in google maps with all the places I wanted to eat and drink. coffee (contact me if you want me to share it to you). So, I was lucky enough to try food in many different levels of taste (and bouillabaisse of course). Actually, in one occasion I tried my first -and only to date- Michelin suggested restaurant, at a business dinner!
By the way, if anyone’s interested, the best place, where I ate at twice, was this one.
MUCEM - MUSEUM OF CIVILIZATIONS OF EUROPE AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
Possibly the best and most famous museum of the city. Worths a visit even for the nice stroll between the buildings.
Nice views from the city here, but the best one is from the top of the hill, outside the gigantic church of Notre-Dame de la Garde.
If you are a fan of museums and parks, do not skip the Musée des Beaux-Arts.
THE CALANQUES NATIONAL PARK
Just a few days before I return to Greece, I made this hike in this National Park. After a total of 5h 22 minutes, hiking 15.58km, my back and knees were really swollen, but it was really a feast for the eyes and soul, after a hard time here, away from my loved ones for so long. You have to hike even a short one, the Park is very beautiful.
RETURN TO GREECE
This adventure ended driving -most of it in thick fog- all the way from Marseille to Genoa, Bari and then by ferry to Greece.
All in all, Marseille is a strangely nice city. There is an indescribable charm around you all the time, a sense of adventure and danger. That is not just because I’ve read a lot of Jean-Claude Izzo’s books (The Marseille Trilogy captures the spirit of the city better than the others) and I’ve seen almost all the movies and series (I loved Marseille and Inhuman Resources with the great guy named Eric Cantona) about the drug gangs in the city, but because it’s really dangerous to live in some of the dirty neighbourhoods; just the day after I left, this young football player was killed, 2 blocks from my apartment.
I guess the wind wasn’t so bad after all.
For 2 months, I had the misfortune of living in an old building on the 4th floor, with no working elevator, so my knees and back were constantly suffering.
Sorry for the quality of the photos, these are all taken with an old iPhone SE. Since I was there on an assignment that did not include photography, I chose not to bring my cameras.
